Sweet Home Alabama.
First things first, I found the best barbecue. Lannie’s is in Selma, Alabama, and it’s a small place nestled in the middle of a neighborhood. The second I walked in there I knew it would be amazing. So I stepped up and told Andre that I traveled 5,000 miles to have the best barbecue ever; he did not disappoint. I ate it on my way out of town as I headed for Mobile and regretted not getting more. “No fuss, all flavor” - my review on yelp. I’m telling you this because I am hoping everyone reading this will one day go to Selma. If not for the history, then at least for the barbecue.
I feel like I haven’t talked you all in a while even though it’s only been a few days. A lot has happened. I’ve met so many great people, there hasn't been a dull moment. I got to Montgomery, AL. around 5pm Friday night which was a little too late to go see museums. No problem though, I planned it that way. I knew I’d have all day Saturday to explore. I killed time in a local sports bar in “The Alley”, a really cool area of downtown lined with bars and restaurants, and found a Philadelphia Eagles fan. What a nice surprise that was. I spotted his hat from a mile away and knew immediately who I was going to talk to for the next twenty minutes. After some much needed sports talk, I got to my airbnb and met Kristine and her adorable dogs; AK (47), Susie and Gronk. It’s funny, they all go on a walk together and her cat walks with them as well. Like one big happy pet family. I couldn’t get enough. I can’t get my cats to come to me when I call them, let alone go for a walk with me.
I said goodbye to the animals and headed off to spend my day learning more about the civil rights movement. I stood at the bus stop where Rosa Parks famously defied the white bus driver, J.F. Blake, by responding “you may do that” to his threat of calling the Police when she refused to give up her seat. Her wording and bravery sparked the Montgomery bus boycott that would go on for thirteen months. It’s amazing to me what people will do when faced with opposition, how they will rally and stand together. Rosa Parks said no on December 1, 1955. In those few days leading up to December 5, 1955, word had spread, flyers had gone out, and by dawn on the morning of her trial buses were practically empty and the boycott had officially begun. I made sure to see the civil rights memorial before I left Montgomery which is beautifully done and a stop I highly recommend. Maya Lin, the woman who designed the Vietnam memorial, also designed this one. There are forty names on it, some white, some black, and all important losses in the fight for civil rights. Montgomery is only 54 miles to Selma on Route 80, the same route 8,000 people marched in 1965 for the right to vote. Along the way there are stopping points to take note of. One of which is the memorial for the first white woman killed in the march, Viola Liuzzo, mother of five and 39 years old. She wanted to march for what she believed in and the KKK didn’t like that. I didn’t spend a lot of time in Selma, it’s a small town with not too much to do, but I did walk across the Edmund Pettus Bridge where “Bloody Sunday” was infamously broadcasted to the world. Although Selma is small, it’s definitely worth a visit. Don’t forget to eat at Lannie’s while you’re there!
After a long day I finally reached Mobile, AL. I’ve spent three nights and two days here and it definitely goes at the top of my list of experiences on this trip so far. I met my couch surfing host, Robert, a really funny guy with a casual vibe that matches his southern drawl and a massive record collection, at the Foley Horse Arena. Unsure of what I was walking into, I stumbled upon a small town rodeo and was welcomed by his friend Katrina and her two sisters Madeleine and Amanda. They taught me all about barrel racing and pole bending as I watched in awe while they turned sharp corners and weaved through the poles. It was Amanda’s first time in a competition and she did so great riding Hawk. One of my favorite things about couch surfing is finding hosts that love their cities so much that they want to show you around. That’s Robert. He has a pet pot-bellied pig named Oliver who not only greets you at the gate when you arrive but he also does tricks. He sits, spins, shakes and is rewarded with his favorite food, marshmallows. After that fun introduction, he took me to the small area of downtown and showed me some of the historical sites as well as some of his favorite antique and record shops. Mobile, fun fact, is actually the birthplace of Mardi Gras. As Robert would say, “Mobile started it but New Orleans does it better”. The whole month here is dedicated to Mardi Gras with parades almost every night. I got to experience my first parade where I was promptly pelted with beads and moon pies from the floats passing by.
My second day here was a last minute decision, but after a conversation I had with Madeleine the day before I knew I had to stay one more night and go see Dauphin Island. She was right, it’s a really cool place. It’s a quiet beach town that is amazing for bird watching, if you’re into that. There are pelicans everywhere you look. At one end of the island is the historic Fort Gaines, the white sand beach of Pelican Point, and the bird sanctuary. At the other end are big, beautiful homes all on stilts, which makes sense considering the island is not very wide and south Alabama is prone to flooding. They’re painted colorful pastel tones and have private beach access everywhere. Driving through the island, I realized it reminded me a little bit of my mom’s place in Long Beach Island. I forgot I was in Alabama for a moment there.
It’s almost time for Mardi Gras in New Orleans and I can’t wait! Going to make a quick stop along the shores of Mississippi first though.
- G.
The Photo:
Edmund Pettus Bridge.
Selma, Alabama.
2/18/17.
