Charleston.
Before I even got to Charleston I already knew I wanted to have two full days to do everything. I thought that was enough time but honestly one more day would have been ok. I think I got in everything I wanted to do though. I packed a lot into two days. I just looked at the health app on my phone, and assuming it's somewhat accurate, I walked 9.5 miles and took 24,924 steps on the first day alone. In case you missed it, Charleston is a walking city and a beautiful one, at that. Everything has some kind of historical significance. George Washington sat everywhere and held speeches throughout the city when he visited. Also the oldest theater in America is in Charleston, the Dock Street Theater. If you're thinking well, there are a lot of places with a long history. Yes, that's true. What makes Charleston so special are the alleyways that connect the streets. If you spend time slowly wandering around like I did, you will find them. You'd think at first glance maybe they'd connect to someone's backyard or another property but if you're ever there and you see an alleyway, try it out and walk down it. Some of them are super small and wind back and forth until you cut through, some of them are large enough to fit a small car down them. Most have vines everywhere and all of them are a little different than the one before. The first one I walked down was a nice surprise because it was "Philadelphia Alley", more commonly known as "Dueler's Alley".
After stopping for the best pastrami sandwich I've ever had at Cru Cafe, which coincidently is located on Motley Lane, I kept strolling. I found the synagogue that's there and a couple of beautiful churches you could walk through. At this point I had seen a lot but I really didn't know what I was looking at or the significance behind it all so I signed up for a walking tour. It was a great two hours. I learned all the stories behind everything and little details I never would have known had I not done it. For example: there's an intersection they call the Four Corners of Law because on each corner is the Courthouse, City Hall, Federal Building and Post Office, and Saint Michael's Episcopal Church. A.K.A. state law, city law, federal law, and god law.
While I was there I stayed at the Notso Hostel. It's about a half hour walk to downtown from there but it's definitely the best deal. Charleston is a little pricey, unfortunately. Everyone was super friendly and inviting and it was probably my favorite hostel yet. There was a big balcony upstairs to relax on which I happily took advantage of all three nights. While there I met Bud, a traveler and hostel extraordinaire; Brandan, another traveler with hostel knowledge; Robin, a young man from London on holiday who happens to love LA and has awesome stories to share, also my travel buddy to Savannah; Oliver, the biggest history buff I've ever met; Muiris, a very cool Irishman and historian who offered me his couch when I get to Santa Cruz; and Ian and Joseph, hilarious high school friends just passing through.
The morning of my last day I mentioned to Sara, another woman staying there, that I was driving out to a plantation. Little did I know she and I would become pretty good travel friends. I had a good feeling when I first met her, so I should have known. She immediately asked to join me for the day, something I would do, which made me smile and of course she was welcome to come! We spent the morning at the Boone Hall Plantation. It was really beautiful, most notably the Avenue of Oaks. The driveway is lined with 88 oaks and was the inspiration for Gone With the Wind, so I'm told. Another important thing to know about Charleston is that it is a food town. Everything is delicious. A local favorite is She Crab soup and fried flounder with apricot sauce. We had both for lunch and were not disappointed. If you're there go to Fleet Landing for lunch and sit outside, the view is great but their food is better. Watching the sunset from the rooftop bar at Vendue with Robin and Sara, I thought was the highlight of the day until we got to dinner.
Now as some of you know, I have my USA book that I've read and highlighted and so on. There's a place on their can't miss list called Bowen's Island Restaurant. Thank goodness for that book or I would have missed this amazing place. It's on Folly Beach, only a 15 minute drive from downtown and is literally at the end of a dirt road. The best oysters I've ever had are here. And I've had a lot. They're huge and you have to shuck them yourself which is completely worth it. The food is ok, just fried seafood, nothing special. It was way more food than Sara and I could handle and we both agreed that we should have just gotten an excessive amount of oysters. I wish I could have those all the time.
Charleston is definitely a place I want to visit again and take my time to walk through, maybe find all the alleys I missed and eat everything I never got to try.
Talk to you after Savannah, GA.!
- G.
The Photo:
Someone's front gate.
Charleston, SC.
2/01/17.
