The Tundra.
I am so glad Erica and I chose not to camp in Rocky Mountain National Park last week and here's why. When I arrived to Estes Park, the small town just outside the national park and home to the famous Stanley Hotel (redrum!), on Monday, it was definitely noticeably colder than it had been in Denver earlier that morning. I pit-stopped briefly on my way to the park in Boulder. A very pretty and smaller place than I thought, it boasts the beautiful Pearl Street. Should you ever go, along with the multiple hikes I've heard about, this is the place to see. Unfortunately I had woken up that morning with the most annoying intense shoulder pain, probably from all the driving and sleeping on couches I've been doing, so I crossed hiking off my list while I was there. I figured I'd save the aggravation for my hike in the National Park later that day. The four blocks made of brick walkways and small shops was postcard heaven for me. Everybody was very friendly, out and about with their skateboards and dogs, the beautiful weather an added bonus. I kept seeing postcards for the Flatiron mountains, a Boulder landmark, and wondering where the best vantage point was without going on a long hike. Stumbling across a small visitor center about half way into Pearl Street, the woman behind the front desk told me to walk two blocks up, take a right, and go to the top of the parking garage. Odd directions, I thought, but she seemed to know what she was talking about and it was so close. The short buildings left no obstructions and the perfect line of sight to the flat boulders protruding from the earth at a forty five degree angle. They looked picture perfect against the crisp blue sky I have become accustom to here in Colorado. The Dushanbe Teahouse was another welcome find just off Pearl Street. It was a beautiful and intricately detailed building with gardens covering the base and a bustling crowd outside enjoying the day, and their tea. I kept wondering what the Boulder nightlife was like. That's one of the downfalls of passing through during the day though, you only see one side of a place. Exploring Colorado right now is really the perfect time, everything is in bloom, vibrant, lush and green. I can't seem to get enough of colorful Colorado.
After getting to Estes Park in the early afternoon, I picked up my couch surfing host, Hasan, and we headed into the park for a late afternoon hike. An interesting guy from Turkey who has spent his last three summers in Estes Park, of all places, he was eager to hike with me. Who am I to turn down a hiking buddy? I have to tell you all, I can't remember the last time I had to break out my winter gear, not so much the jacket, but the boots. Not that I didn't know where it was, I just hated that I had to get it out. The curved, narrow road, essential to all National Parks, took us to a very popular and short hike that was surprisingly not very busy. This was probably because the park had just gotten a few feet of snow last Thursday and the trails were still completely covered. The snow was almost packed down too tightly from other hikers; I practically slid my way back down the gradual incline to the parking lot. The hike took us to three lakes, two of which we made it to. Dream Lake was the best part of that hike, for sure. The tundra may be cold, but boy does it do a fantastic job showing off how gorgeous scenery can be. Fallen logs, large rocks and boulders in the water were all covered with fresh, perfectly white mushroom caps. The water looked like a black hole contrasting the much brighter, glistening snow. I loved how the mountains in the distance, slowly coming into view through the fog, never stole the show from the lake down below. Continuing on, the expansive overlook onto the pines and what would be mountains was cut short from the low hanging blizzard clouds. They engulfed the mountains as the sunshine tried to fight its way back into the picture. I noted the small streams of water breaking up the snow, like little hidden rivers and mini waterfalls. It was still day time at this point and only lightly snowing, plenty of time to find Alberta Falls. Just one of the many falls in Rocky Mountain National Park, the trail's soundtrack was the roar of the falls and appeared along the side of a gorge that opened up to the rushing water far below. Carefully stepping out onto the slippery ledge, I could just barely see the bottom through the now pouring snow. Coming around the bend just a bit farther, snow accumulating on our hoods and backpacks, the falls gushed over rocks, down and around, and hustled to make it back to somewhere I wouldn't find. Cold and satisfied with the amazing find, we headed back to Estes Park for some relaxation, a Buffalo burger, and bowling.
For those of you thinking of visiting Rocky Mountain National Park, it is large, very large. There are multiple visitor centers throughout and a lot of them are seasonal. Sadly, it's a short season since the roads to get to them go through the mountains where snow is a constant. So, forgoing a stamp or two, we hiked in the southeast corner of the park at Wild Basin. Before this trip, my dad gave me ice grips for my shoes. When he first gave them to me I thought, what the heck am I going to do with these? Well, I figured it out. A day too late unfortunately, having forgotten them the day before, but I was determined to remember them for the morning hike. The weather was perfectly clear, however, and the snow had begun to melt. Only slightly helpful in the mud, I still managed to slip my way to Calypso Cascades. A large and gorgeous water fall with small details of icicles dripping from every branch that draped across it, I noted how different it must look without the snow. The hike back to the car was just as beautiful as the one there. I admired the trees, so different with each new turn, sunlight shining through them highlighting what was left of the already blinding snow. I do enjoy snow hiking, in case you're wondering. If you remember, I've done it once before on this trip when it randomly snowed back in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The cold I can live without, but the snow, that's a whole other story. I love the way it neatly decorated Rocky Mountain National Park.
A long drive later and a mess up on my part with a couch surfing host, I made it to Breckenridge, Colorado. I ended up picking the wrong date by mistake of when I was arriving to the seasonal winter town; I was wondering when I was going to do that. Little tip about couch surfing, 4:30 pm is a terrible time to message hosts for the same night. It's right when people could be getting off work or have already planned their day/evening so they no longer can host. I decided to regroup at the Breckinridge overlook, which I happened upon while looking for a scenic place to take a breath, and was answered by a host who would prove to be one of the coolest people I've met on this trip. Long dreads, two lip piercings, an intricate sleeve, and a welcoming and fun personality, E-Liz made me feel right at home. She introduced me to some of her friends and invited me to the town dinner that happens every Tuesday in Silverthorne. Later that evening, she told me all about her impressive road trip(s) she's taken. Sitting down with a map and just one piece of paper, she mapped out everything I shouldn't miss in Colorado, Utah, Arizona, California, Nevada, Oregon and Washington. Extensive, I know, and greatly appreciated. Not that my list wasn't already overwhelming, but I have so much to do now I'll never be bored. With so many stops, it sounds exhausting; well worth it. The whole point of this trip is to see everything I've been missing, so it only seems fitting I take her advice, and mine, and do just that.
Living right next to the Arapaho National Forest has its perks. We spent Wednesday talking about our travels and interesting people we've met along the way all the while building a "thing." We'd later come to call it a fort, regardless, it was an excellent way to spend an afternoon. How often do you get to collect wood from a national forest and artistically create a fort? Kudos if you've done this, by the way; I'd like to see those pictures. My last night in Silverthorne was a busy night for E-Liz and I still hadn't really seen Breckenridge, so I ventured out on my own about twenty minutes away to the small town surrounded by sky high mountains. I made some friends at a local bar, one of the few open, wandered around town, admired the colorful shops, and tried some Breckinridge-made beer. I learned that there's such a thing here as mud season. It's the few weeks during the off season when, I guess, everything is melting and the slopes are shut down. Not just the slopes though, a lot of the town. The perks, and downfalls if you're passing through, of a seasonal town. One of the bars we went to had literally just opened that day. In case you didn't know, the town is known for being a great skiing and snowboarding area, a lot of the places out here in Colorado are. Fun fact, they have UV warnings here; so crazy. Sort of like tornado warnings that pop up on your phone if you happen to be in the area. Obviously if you're from the northeast like me you won't know what that is, but that's what happens with UV warnings. That altitude, I'm telling you, it'll get ya. I really liked that brief section of Summit County I visited, it was small enough that a lot of people knew each other, but big enough that you had to drive twenty minutes to get to the next town. Seems like a pretty good mixture to me.
My shoulder pain is gone thanks to E-Liz and Matt and their wonderfulness and willingness to help me work out the kinks. I've finally gotten a full night's rest and am ready for the next stop. I've been in Aspen two nights and am headed to another National Park today! Lots to do, lots to see!
Talk soon,
- G.
The Photo:
Dream Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Estes Park, CO.
5/22/17.
